by My Old House Fix
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From our Friends at Cornish Lime - 5 Tips for pointing with lime 👇
1. If your raking out old mortar, do so cautiously. We recommend keeping it simple with hand tools over power tools.
2. Ensure you dampen down your background to control suction. This helps prevent the mortar drying out and cracking.
3. While it might be tempting, don't over work the mortar when placing it in the joint. If you do, you'll likely smear mortar on your stonework.
4. Once you're ready to compact and finish the joint, grab your churn brush. If you strike the mortar and see pinholes, it's likely too wet and needs a bit more time.
5. Always budget for hessian. Fresh lime work requires protection from the elements.
This is helpful. This is a long-shot, but are these any resources for Spanish speakers on how to repoint old house foundations with lime morter? We have a handyman and neighbor who might be able to help us get this done (at least for part of the basement).
G
𝗟𝘂𝗺𝗯𝗲𝗿 𝗬𝗮𝗿𝗱 𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗼𝘂𝗿𝗰𝗲𝘀. They are getting harder to find...we're here to help! If you've been around Old Houses for a minute, then you know the difference between old-growth lumber and the mostly inferior, quiclky-grown/harvested wood of today. It's pretty terrible! For this reason, it can pay off to visit your local lumber yards and sawmils. This way you can get locally harvested, and often better quality materials for all your Old House needs - siding, trim, millwork, etc. Browse our curated info and resources today to connect to local lumber yards near you!
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Hello all,
I have a typical unfinished basement with masonry walls. The walls are constantly shedding dirt - which I think is dried up lime mortar. The dirt is getting all over everything in the basement and making it very difficult for me to use the basement for storage.
I was thinking of covering the walls with some sort of temporary curtain, just so I can actually keep things down there. But now I'm wondering - is this something that would be solved by re-pointing? Or is there some other solution I haven't thought of?
Thank you,
Eliza
Eliza you are spot-on...the "dirt' is the breakdown of the mortar and the lime/cement dust and sand shedding. My basement is the same and needs re-pointed, as well. It's on my list lol
G
This is my secret for exterior clapboard and siding! 👍
𝗤: 𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗶𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗜𝗻𝗳𝗿𝗮𝗥𝗲𝗱 𝗥𝗮𝗰𝗸 𝗞𝗶𝘁?
𝗔: 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝙐𝙇𝙏𝙄𝙈𝘼𝙏𝙀 𝗛𝗮𝗻𝗱𝘀-𝗙𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝗱𝗲𝘃𝗶𝗰𝗲𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗦𝗽𝗲𝗲𝗱𝗵𝗲𝗮𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟭𝟭𝟬𝟬 & 𝗥𝗮𝗽𝗶𝗱 𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗺 𝗣𝗮𝗶𝗻𝘁 𝗦𝘁𝗿𝗶𝗽𝗽𝗲𝗿!
Hand-held Infrared Paint Strippers get 𝘩𝘦𝘢𝘷𝘺 in a hurry, am I right? Additionally, they spend 50% of the time on, sitting idle, and just hanging there while you are scraping. To make matters worse, it’s difficult, if not impossible to have one setup that 𝘤𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘪𝘳𝘦 𝘸𝘰𝘳𝘬 𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘢, fast and efficiently!
What if you could have your Infrared Paint Stripper simultaneously heating for you…while you scrape, and access nearly your entire work surface/area from one initial setup? The InfraRed Rack™ Kit solves these issues! I really hope you enjoy it! Check out all the details here:
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This faux-tile paneling was installed in the pantry, apparently when it was built because it is applied directly to the lathe. The pantry and kitchen were a later addition to the original 1893 house. Has anyone seen something like this? Any idea of when it became available?
Kim Aiken Based on the appearance of the scored lines, the "masonite" or hardboard texture, and the way it’s nailed directly to the lath, this faux-tile paneling (often called hardboard tileboard or Lustertile) most likely dates from the late 1930s to 1950s.
While it was manufactured into the 60s and 70s, the specific style in your photo—with the deeper, dark-colored "grout" grooves and the beige/tan enamel—is very characteristic of the Post-Depression and early Post-War era.
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